Between Mist and Hot Springs: I Took a Trip to Yangmingshan
Auto-TranslationVisiting Yangmingshan on a weekday is an easy spontaneous decision.
Taking the MRT from the city to Jiantan Station, then transferring to bus 260, you ascend northward. The city outside the window gradually recedes, buildings become shorter, and the sky opens up. On weekdays, the bus is not crowded, and it feels as if you've already entered the tranquil rhythm of the mountains.
The journey takes less than an hour, and once you get off, the temperature noticeably drops, with the air filled with moisture and the scent of grass and trees.
The temperature on the mountain is usually 3 to 5°C lower than in the city, so a light jacket or a decent long-sleeve shirt is usually sufficient, though it’s always reassuring to have something extra packed away.
How to Get to Yangmingshan?
There is no MRT station in Yangmingshan, but it's actually quite convenient to get there from downtown Taipei.
The most common way is to take the MRT to Jiantan Station or Shilin Station, and then transfer to the Red 5 or bus 260, which takes about 40 to 50 minutes. Including the waiting time, you can reach the Yangmingshan bus terminus in about an hour. If starting from Shihpai Station, you can take bus Xiaobao 8, and it takes about 30 to 40 minutes to reach the area around Zhuzihu.
The attractions in Yangmingshan are spread out over a wide area, mainly concentrated around Xiaoyoukeng, Lengshuikeng, Qingtiengang, and the Zhuzihu area.
Between Xiaoyoukeng and Lengshuikeng, the bus ride takes about 10 to 15 minutes. The bus from Lengshuikeng to Qingtiengang also takes about 10 to 15 minutes, but if you take the Lengqing Trail, it will take approximately 40 to 60 minutes to walk.
To get from Lengshuikeng or Xiaoyoukeng to Zhuzihu, you will usually need to transfer at the Yangmingshan bus terminus, with the travel time ranging from about 30 to 60 minutes. A round trip from Qingtiengang to Zhuzihu also requires one transfer, with a one-way journey taking approximately 40 to 60 minutes.
It is recommended to check the bus schedules before heading out and to plan your walk according to your endurance. For shorter sections, arrange for a leisurely hike, while using the bus for longer routes. This will make your overall journey much smoother.
Flower Clock: A Different Sense of Time in the Mountains
Next to the Yangmingshan bus terminus, there is a flower clock that many people pass by without stopping to take a look.
The clock face is made up of seasonal flowers, with different colors for each season. Unlike clocks in the city that create a sense of urgency, it reminds you that time moves differently in the mountains.
Standing in front of the flower clock for a few minutes is one of the rare moments in this journey where you can simply let your mind wander and not think of anything at all.
Xiaoyoukeng and Lengshuikeng: Heat and Coolness on the Same Path
The first stop I chose is Xiaoyoukeng. White steam continuously rises from the ground, and the smell of sulfur stretches far into the air. The ground beneath my feet is hot, while the mountain breeze cools my face. In that moment where heat and coolness coexist, it becomes clear that this is a volcano still breathing.
On weekdays, with fewer people around, the steam forms clear lines against the backlight, making it quiet enough to simply stand and watch.
Walking from Xiaoyoukeng to Lengshuikeng, the fog begins to rise among the trees, and the air becomes moist, making the sound of footsteps soft. There are free foot baths along the trail. The moment you dip your feet into the hot spring, the fatigue accumulated from the journey is instantly melted away. Occasionally, there are one or two strangers sitting nearby, and although no one speaks, the atmosphere is very peaceful and pleasant.
Remember to bring a towel and a spare pair of socks for the foot bath; once you leave the hot water, the cool breeze will immediately come in, so being prepared will allow you to continue your walk comfortably.
If you venture further into the deeper parts of the mountains, the appearance of Yangmingshan will change once again.
Qingtiengang: The Scale of a Winter Grassland
As you continue on to Qingtiengang, the view suddenly opens up completely.
In spring, the grassland appears especially vast, with cogongrass bent low by the cold wind and the sky looking so clear, unlike in Taipei. In the distance, you can occasionally spot wild water buffalo moving slowly, resembling a slow-motion scene from a movie.
This is the place in Yangmingshan where it's easiest to lose track of time.
When taking photos, place people in the corners of the frame, allowing the grassland and sky to take center stage, and the sense of winter's openness will naturally emerge.
What to See in Yangmingshan During Each Season?
Many people come to know Yangmingshan during cherry blossom season, but in fact, it offers different scenery throughout the year.
Spring is the busiest time in Yangmingshan. From January to March each year, cherry blossoms bloom, with different varieties flowering in succession, enveloping the entire mountain area in a mist of pink.
Following that, from March to April is the Calla Lily season at Zhuzihu, where white calla lily fields blanket the valleys.
By May to June, the hydrangea season takes the stage, transforming the area around Zhuzihu into a sea of blue and purple flowers.
Although there are fewer people in autumn and winter, these seasons are better suited for observing volcanic terrain, changes in the clouds and mist, and hot spring landscapes, offering a different kind of experience.
On this route, you are actually moving around a mountain—Qixing Mountain.
Qixing Mountain is the highest peak in Yangmingshan National Park, standing at an altitude of about 1,120 meters, making it the tallest mountain in Taipei City. For many residents of Taipei, it is a "mountain that can be easily accessed at any time."
This mountain is part of the Datun Volcano Group, and its conical shape is formed by past volcanic activity. From different angles, you'll notice that the mountain is divided into several undulating ridges, which is why it is named "Qixing Mountain."
On a clear day, standing at the main peak offers a view of the entire Taipei Basin, with the Tamsui River and the city skyline appearing simultaneously in the horizon. If time allows, you can follow the trail to the East Peak or Dream Lake, creating a complete circular route in the area.
Dream Lake: A Continuation of Time
Dream Lake is a long-existing wetland. The lake is not very large, and when the weather is foggy, the entire area becomes incredibly quiet, resembling a patch of water temporarily tucked away by the mountains.
What makes this place most special is a type of plant that is almost exclusively found here—Taiwanese water bamboo.
It looks like slender green grass, growing close to the water's surface, and it's easy to miss if you don't look closely. However, this plant has existed in this wetland for thousands of years, and to this day, Dream Lake remains the only natural habitat for it in the world.
When the water level is high, it submerges beneath the surface; during dry spells, it resurfaces and continues to grow. The entire rhythm of its life changes in harmony with this wetland.
Because of this, Dream Lake has been designated as an important protected area, with most regions off-limits to entry, allowing only distant views along the trails.
Standing at the edge of the trail, what you see is not just plants, but a continuation of time.
Xiangtianshui: A Lake that Appears Only at Certain Times
It's worth mentioning Xiangtianshui, a景色 that appears only at specific moments.
This is a seasonal volcanic lake that is usually just a grassy field, only filling with water after a typhoon or several days of heavy rain. The water does not last long, typically lingering for about one to two weeks before disappearing again.
However, during this period, a small creature that almost exclusively appears here quickly comes to life—the Xiangtian shrimp.
They are not shrimp, but a type of branchiopod. Small and transparent, they move in the water like floating green shadows. Typically, they hide in the dry, cracked soil in the form of dormant eggs, and once they encounter standing water, they rapidly hatch, grow, and reproduce, ending their life as the pond water disappears.
The entire life cycle is condensed into just a few days.
Such a sight is not easily encountered. Typically, it can only be seen in the few stable days following the rainy season, when the temporary water body and its life emerge.
If you have the opportunity to visit, it is recommended to observe from a distance along the trail and not enter the water, allowing these fragile lives to complete their cycle.
What is the Best Way for First-Time Visitors to Hike Up the Mountain?
If you're a beginner, I recommend the following route: Xiaoyoukeng → Lengshuikeng → Qingtiengang.
This route covers three types of landscapes: volcano, hot springs, and grassland, making it relatively easy, with clear signage, suitable for most travelers.
Starting from the city center, allowing 4 to 6 hours, including walking and resting time, would make for a more leisurely experience.
If you want to explore more deeply, you can consider the "Taipei Great Trail." Segments 2 and 3 pass through Yangmingshan, connecting longer trails and landscapes, making it a popular choice for advanced hikers.
Why is Yangmingshan Worth a Visit?
回到市區時，距離與環境的轉換仍然很明顯。
In less than an hour, you can transition from a bustling city to a terrain that features volcanic landscapes, hot springs, and grasslands. Such a change is uncommon in other cities.
What makes Yangmingshan special is not just the attractions themselves, but the distance between it and the city—close enough, yet completely different.
This is also why it is worth visiting repeatedly.
