Jiufen - A Timeless Realm Hidden Among the Misty Mountains
Auto-TranslationJiufen is a mountain town that breathes between mist and sea breeze. Ascending the narrow stone steps, the wooden old houses are closely nestled against each other, while red lanterns sway gently beneath the eaves, casting soft light on the mottled walls. Tea houses, coffee shops, and snack stalls are interspersed among them, with the air filled with the sweet fragrance of taro balls and the steam of fish ball soup. At dusk, as you gaze towards Keelung Port in the distance, the sea glistens golden under the sunset, and mist flows slowly from the valleys, resembling the quiet rhythm of the mountain town's breath.
What makes Jiufen special is its diverse charm. The landscape blends the beauty of mountains and seas with nostalgic architecture; although the old streets are bustling with activity, they still retain the joy of hidden paths. Fans of traditional architecture can admire the ancient street houses, while food enthusiasts can indulge in a wide array of street delicacies. Those who love stunning views can feast their eyes on the magnificent scenery of the Pacific Ocean. No matter what type of traveler you are, you can find your own moment of tranquility in this hilly mountain town.
The history of Jiufen dates back to the camphor industry era, and it was named "Jiufenzi" due to the presence of ninety camphor distilleries. The discovery of gold mines in the 1890s transformed this place into a "golden mountain town" bustling with prospectors, featuring numerous businesses and thriving theaters and tea houses. After the decline of the mining industry, the population dispersed, and the mountain town fell into a period of silence. It wasn't until the release of the film "A City of Sadness," which was shot here in 1989, that Jiufen was once again brought back into the world's spotlight; later, its fame grew even further due to its resemblance to scenes in the animated film "Spirited Away," attracting travelers from both near and far in search of their dreams.
Jiufen features several viewing platforms and scenic restaurants, providing broad vistas (Image source: Photographed by Wu Qiaoyun).
Jiufen features several viewing platforms and scenic restaurants, providing broad vistas (Image source: Photographed by Wu Qiaoyun).
The old street of Jiufen is bustling with a continuous flow of people (Image source: Photographed by Wu Qiaoyun).
The old street of Jiufen is bustling with a continuous flow of people (Image source: Photographed by Wu Qiaoyun).
Mountain Town Architecture and Seasonal Scenery
The houses in Jiufen are closely adjoining, with windows facing windows and doors facing doors. The neighborly greetings and the smell of cooking create a rich and warm sense of community. Due to the frequent rains and winds in the area, early designs often featured sloped roofs covered with black tar paper, protecting against the elements. Although these roofs absorb heat in the summer, they carry the memories of the mountain town. Those black, tar-covered roofs, glistening faintly in the misty rain, were once Jiufen's most profound scenery. As time has passed, concrete roofs have gradually replaced the old style, making people even more nostalgic for those simple times.
"The 'three horizontals and one vertical' secret phrase for wandering Jiufen refers to the layout: Jishan Street, Qingbian Road, and Qiche Road are the three horizontals, while Ziqi Road is the vertical, intertwining to create the unique structure of the mountain town. Ziqi Road is a vertical stone stairway in Jiufen, built along the mountain with more than three hundred steps of stone, where red brick and wooden buildings stand silently in line, with tea houses scattered throughout that offer views of the sprawling North Coast. As night falls, red lanterns light up one by one, and the stone steps glow softly, making the entire street resemble a slowly unfolding time tunnel.
"Spring cherry blossoms, summer breezes, autumn pampas grass, and winter mist" perfectly capture the unique beauty of the mountain town's four seasons.
Alley Shops and the Flavors of the Mountain Town
Jishan Street is the liveliest starting point of Jiufen Old Street and the gateway to awakening your taste buds. The aromas of taro balls, meatballs, and grass cake waft through the air, while small shops are filled with antique trinkets and local souvenirs, allowing visitors to enjoy delicious food while lingering in a nostalgic atmosphere. When coming to Jiufen, bringing local snacks has almost become a tradition—packaged taro balls, peanut candy, and sweet potato crisps are all perfect for both gifting and personal enjoyment, embodying the flavors of the mountain town.
Hidden within the alleys are many handmade treasures. Handcrafted pottery is particularly charming, with tea sets, decorative items, and even Jiufen-exclusive ceramic creations infused with inspirations from the mountains and sea, along with the artisans' heartfelt intentions. Pairing these with Oriental Beauty tea or high mountain oolong tea, accompanied by tea plums, dried mangoes, or tea mochi, brings a delightful complexity to the palate. From jewelry to textiles, each handcrafted item showcases delicate creativity, making it hard for visitors to look away.
The nostalgic atmosphere of the old street is always accompanied by wafts of sweet aromas and cooking smoke. The most iconic delicacies in Jiufen are undoubtedly the chewy and tender taro balls and sweet potato balls. From traditional flavors like taro and sweet potato to innovative variants such as mung bean, matcha, sesame, and yam, these delicacies are suitable for both hot and cold servings, each bite filled with the sweet and soothing memories of the mountain town. Among them, A Gan Yi's taro balls have become a must-visit spot for many travelers, as one can savor the treats while enjoying a breathtaking sea view from a high vantage point, offering a unique experience.
Another popular snack is grass cake. A Lan's grass cake is known for its perfectly balanced sweet and savory taste, filled with generous portions of shredded radish and dried shrimp, delivering a refreshing aroma with a hint of nostalgia. The taro cake is skillfully made, offering a firm yet chewy texture that releases more rice aroma with each bite. The red fermented meatballs are crafted using traditional methods, featuring a soft outer skin enveloping a rich filling, enhanced by a specially concocted sauce that adds even more depth to the flavors.
The Flavors of Jiufen Old Street - Taro Balls (Image source: Photographed by Wu Qiaoyun).
The Flavors of Jiufen Old Street - Peanut Ice Cream Rolls (Image source: Photographed by Wu Qiaoyun).
Slow Moments in a Wisp of Tea Smoke
In Jiufen, if you wish to temporarily escape the bustling sounds of the old street, you might consider stepping into a tea house. As you push open the wooden door, the aroma of tea rises and time slows down. From the warm tea brew to the exquisite tea sets, from the brewing gestures to the tea pastries, each step feels like a ritual dedicated to the mountain town. Sitting by the window, you can witness the magnificent scenery where mountains and sea meet during the day, along with the flowing crowds of the old street; as night falls, red lanterns light up one by one, and the entire street appears to unfold like an antique painting, allowing you to savor both the tea and the accompanying views.
One of the most well-known tea houses in Jiufen is A Mei Tea House. With its tiered wooden architecture and lanterns hanging high, it is often likened to scenes from animations and has become an indispensable sight in travelers' photos. Upon entering the tea room, the fragrance of high mountain tea mingles with unique snacks, while the misty view of the mountains and sea flows outside the window, making it a perfect place to sit quietly and chat with friends and family.
Transformed from a century-old residence, Jiufen Tea House (Weng Shan Ying's Former Residence) retains the original layout of stone mixed with wooden structures. The varying height of the space, with its delicate renovations, allows the old house to still showcase its charm amidst the passage of time. The birth of the first cultural tea house back then led the trend of "drinking tea in upper Jiufen," allowing this mining mountain town to rediscover its cultural rhythm amidst the wisps of tea smoke.
On Jiufen Old Street, tea houses and scenic restaurants abound (Image source: Photographed by Wu Qiaoyun).
Old Theatre of Shifting Light and Shadow
Walking up the winding stone steps of Jiufen, as you turn at the intersection of Qingbian Road and Ziqi Road, you'll find the memories of a century of light and shadow quietly standing beside the old red brick wall—Shengping Theatre, the oldest theatre in northern Taiwan. Its story began in 1916 with a wooden stage, where the lively sounds of Taiwanese opera echoed, and three to four hundred spectators shared the excitement in the mountain town's night. In 1934, it was renovated into a formal theatre, featuring a Baroque façade and U-shaped seating, allowing Jiufen, during its mining boom, to have its own shining silver screen.
The theatre went dark in 1986. Fortunately, after renovations and restoration, the old theatre has once again illuminated with a soft glow. Stepping inside the retro ticket booth and the display area, the old movie posters have faintly yellowed, and vintage projectors are quietly showcased, as if you can still hear the sound of film reels turning. This place has also appeared in the frames of "Daughter of the Nile" and "A City of Sadness," capturing the joys and sorrows of the mountain town in classic scenes. Today, Shengping Theatre is open for free visits, screening introduction videos and clips of old films during the day.
Visiting information for Shengping Theatre: https://www.gep.ntpc.gov.tw/submenu?usein=5&psid=0G315469176515691444
Shengping Theatre Depicts the Joys and Sorrows of Life (Image source: Photographed by Wu Qiaoyun).
Shengping Theatre Depicts the Joys and Sorrows of Life (Image source: Photographed by Wu Qiaoyun).
Shengping Theatre Depicts the Joys and Sorrows of Life (Image source: Photographed by Wu Qiaoyun).
Conclusion:
Jiufen is not just a scenic spot, but a mountain town that treasures time. Mist, lanterns, tea fragrance, and light and shadow intertwine to create memories among the stone steps and sea breeze. Having experienced both prosperity and silence, it continues to gently await travelers, inviting them to find their own moment of tranquility in a cup of tea, a bowl of taro balls, and an old film.
Transportation:
Bus 965 (Taipei to Jiufen)
Bus 1062 (Taipei to Jiufen)
National Highway No. 1 - Exit at Badudu Interchange - Provincial Highway 62 - Exit at Ruifang Interchange - Provincial Highway 2 Ding - County Road 102.
Nearby Attractions:
Wuer Tea Pot Mountain Hiking Trail
Yinyang Sea
Golden Waterfall
Gold Museum
Jinguashi
Shuian Cave Yinyang Sea
Buyang Pavilion
Pingshi Station/Old Street
Jishan Seaview Pavilion
Tian Gong Temple Kaicheng Hall
Thirteen Levels Smeltery Ruins
Baoshishan Observation Deck
Yehliu Geopark
Houtong Cat Village
Shifen Station/Old Street/Waterfall
Jingtong Station/Old Street
