Yangmingshan North-South Trekking - Exploring Bazhilan to Jinbaoli (Part 1)
Auto-TranslationFrom the Neiliao Ancient Trail to the northern section of the Yulu Ancient Trail, this mountain path was once a route used by the Pingpu people for marriages, transporting fish catches and sulfur. It connects the hideouts of Jian Dashi during the Anti-Japanese War, the camphor production years of Fanpo, and links the historical footprints of Wenhao Siwen as he crossed from Jinshan Sulfur Harbor through Taiwan’s interior mountains to arrive at the bustling trading center of Bazhilan.
The British diplomat, Robert Swinhoe (1836–1877), known for his work as a translator, sailed around Taiwan aboard a British warship but recorded the island's flora and fauna through the eyes of a naturalist. Many of the species we are familiar with today, such as the Taiwan red frog, the climbing lizard, the blue-bellied rail, and the Formosan black bear, bear his legacy of early collection and classification.
Today, I choose to begin my journey on the Neiliao Ancient Trail and further explore the path that Swinhoe took when he landed at Jinshan Sulfur Harbor in June 1858. Departing at 5 a.m., I set off on the rugged mountain trail, arriving at Bazhilan at 9 p.m., traversing the desolate and misty interior mountain roads, which are the precursors to today's northern section of the Yulu Ancient Trail.
“Grass Mountain winds, Bamboo Lake rains, Jinbaoli roads,” this old saying captures the climate of Yangmingshan and the characteristics of the Yulu Ancient Trail. The Yulu Ancient Trail, also known as the Jinbaoli Road, was used for transporting fish catches, sulfur, and tea leaves. Fish would be carried from Jinbaoli to Bazhilan for sale, in exchange for rice, salt, and other goods. Later, it was rebuilt by soldiers from Henan and was also referred to as the Henan Brave Road. Initially, it served as a mountain path for marriage and trade between the indigenous Ketagalan tribes, specifically the Jinbaoli, Beitou, and Mashao tribes. According to genealogical documentation provided by Mr. Weng Xiang from the Mashao tribe, it details the marriage between a prominent figure of the Mashao tribe and the daughter of a forestry household from the Jinbaoli tribe. This indicates that the route existed during the Qing Dynasty's Qianlong era, with the Mashao tribe having lived around Bazhilan in the past, and their descendants still residing near Tianmu Park and Tianmu American School today. The majority of the Yulu Ancient Trail lies within the Jinbaoli tribe's territory, with some of its members still having settled near the Jinshan Market and Wanli's Jiaojiao area.
In this interaction between people and mountains, many untold stories have emerged. During the early period of Japanese occupation, the Yulu Ancient Trail and the Neiliao area, due to their steep terrain, became hideouts for smugglers and rebels. In 1895, the anti-Japanese hero Jian Dashi stationed his troops here and fought against the Japanese Army for a year before eventually being defeated and returning to Guangdong, where he faced execution ordered by the Qing government. This forested area has become a silent backdrop to a war history filled with the echoes of gunpowder from the Japanese forces and the Taiwanese people's helplessness in resisting foreign aggression.
Today, I choose to begin my journey on the Neiliao Ancient Trail and further explore the path that Swinhoe took when he landed at Jinshan Sulfur Harbor in June 1858. Departing at 5 a.m., I set off on the rugged mountain trail, arriving at Bazhilan at 9 p.m., traversing the desolate and misty interior mountain roads, which are the precursors to today's northern section of the Yulu Ancient Trail.
“Grass Mountain winds, Bamboo Lake rains, Jinbaoli roads,” this old saying captures the climate of Yangmingshan and the characteristics of the Yulu Ancient Trail. The Yulu Ancient Trail, also known as the Jinbaoli Road, was used for transporting fish catches, sulfur, and tea leaves. Fish would be carried from Jinbaoli to Bazhilan for sale, in exchange for rice, salt, and other goods. Later, it was rebuilt by soldiers from Henan and was also referred to as the Henan Brave Road. Initially, it served as a mountain path for marriage and trade between the indigenous Ketagalan tribes, specifically the Jinbaoli, Beitou, and Mashao tribes. According to genealogical documentation provided by Mr. Weng Xiang from the Mashao tribe, it details the marriage between a prominent figure of the Mashao tribe and the daughter of a forestry household from the Jinbaoli tribe. This indicates that the route existed during the Qing Dynasty's Qianlong era, with the Mashao tribe having lived around Bazhilan in the past, and their descendants still residing near Tianmu Park and Tianmu American School today. The majority of the Yulu Ancient Trail lies within the Jinbaoli tribe's territory, with some of its members still having settled near the Jinshan Market and Wanli's Jiaojiao area.
In this interaction between people and mountains, many untold stories have emerged. During the early period of Japanese occupation, the Yulu Ancient Trail and the Neiliao area, due to their steep terrain, became hideouts for smugglers and rebels. In 1895, the anti-Japanese hero Jian Dashi stationed his troops here and fought against the Japanese Army for a year before eventually being defeated and returning to Guangdong, where he faced execution ordered by the Qing government. This forested area has become a silent backdrop to a war history filled with the echoes of gunpowder from the Japanese forces and the Taiwanese people's helplessness in resisting foreign aggression.
Discover Taiwan's Hidden GemsUncover Taiwan's coziest cafés, must-try local dishes, or secret spots — journé will take you to the stories behind the streets, guided by locals and shop owners.
Read on map to find the best spots nearby!Explore highlights from 50+ top travel magazines, anytime, anywhere
Read on map to find the best spots nearby!Explore highlights from 50+ top travel magazines, anytime, anywhereScan on your phone to open this article
Discover Taiwan's Hidden GemsUncover Taiwan's coziest cafés, must-try local dishes, or secret spots — journé will take you to the stories behind the streets, guided by locals and shop owners.Read on map to find the best spots nearby!Explore highlights from 50+ top travel magazines, anytime, anywhere
Read on map to find the best spots nearby!Explore highlights from 50+ top travel magazines, anytime, anywhereScan on your phone to open this article
